This page cover the general specifications for the 4.0 v8 engine
GENERAL SPECIFICATION DATA Engine Type 4.0 litre V8
Number of cylinders Eight, two banks of four
Bore 94.00 -94.04 mm 3.7008 -3.7024 in
Stroke 71.04 -71.20 mm 2.7966 -2.8031 in
Capacity........................................................................... 3950 ern" 241 in3
Valve operation................................................................ Overhead by push-rod
Compression ratio High Compression Low Compression
Up to 99MY 9.35:1 8.2:1
From 99MY 9.38:1 8.23:1
Maximum power (at 4750 rev/min)
Up to 99MY 140 kW 132 kW
From 99MY
All except N.A.S 136 kW 132 kW
N.A.S only 140 kW
Crankshaft
Main journal diameter 63.500 -63.487 mm 2.50 -2.4995 in
Crank-pin journal diameter 55.513 -55.500 mm 2.1856 -2.1850 in
Crankshaft end thrust/end float Taken on thrust washers of center main bearing
0.10-0.20 mm 0.004 -0.008 in
Main bearings
Number and type
Up to 99MY 5, Vandervell shells
From 99MY 5, GlacierVandervell / AS15
Material Lead bronze with lead-indium overlay
Diametrical clearance 0.010-0.048 mm 0.0004 -0.002 in
Connecting rods
Type Horizontally split big-end, plain small-end
Length between centers 155.12 -155.22 mm 6.1071 -6.1110 in
Big-end bearings
Type and material
Up to 99MY Vandervell VP Lead bronze with lead-indium overlay
From 99MY Glacier Vandervell GPL2120 / AS124A
Diametrical clearance 0.015 -0.055 mm 0.0006 -0.002 in
Piston pins
Length 60.00 -60.50 mm 2.3622 -2.3819 in
Diameter 23.995 -24.000 mm 0.9447 -0.9449 in
Fit-in connecting rod Press fit
Clearance in piston 0.015 -0.006 mm 0.00059 -0.00024 in
Pistons
Clearance in bore, measured 10 mm from
base of skirt at right angles to piston pin
Up to 99MY 0.020 -0.050 mm 0.0008 -0.0020 in
From 99MY 0.022 -0.067 mm 0.0009 -0.0026 in
Piston rings
Number of compression rings . 2
Number of oil control rings . 1
No 1 compression ring . Nitride d steel barrel faced
No 2 compression ring . Tapered spherical barrel marked 'TOP'
Width of compression rings
Bottom . 1.478 -1.49 mm 0.0582 -0.0587 in
Top
Up to 99MY 1.21 -1.23 mm 0.0476 -0.0484 in
From 99MY 1.17-1.19mm 0.0461 -0.0479 in
Compression ring gap
Bottom 0.40 -0.65 mm 0.0157 -0.0256 in
Top 0.3 -0.5 mm 0.0118 -0.0197 in
Oil control ring type
Up to 99MY Aclonoform
From 99MY 3 Piece Aeconoform
Oil control ring width 3.0 mm 0.1181 in
Oil control ring rail gap 0.38-1.40 mm 0.0150 -0.0551 in
Camshaft
Location Central
Bearings Non serviceable
Number of bearings 5
Drive Chain 9.52 mm pitch x 54 pitches.
Camshaft end float
Up to 99MY 0.076 -0.355 mm 0.003 -0.014 in
From 99MY 0.075 -0.350 mm 0.002 -0.013 in
Tappets Hydraulic self-adjusting
Valves
Length
Inlet 4.590 -4.620 in 116.59-117.35mm
Exhaust 4.590 -4.620 in 116.59 -117.35 mm
Seat angle From 99MYUp to 99MY
Inlet 45° -45° 30' 46° -46° 25'
Exhaust 45° -45° 30' 46° -46° 25'
Head diameter
Inlet 1.565 -1.575 in 39.75 -40.00 mm
Exhaust 1.3475 -1.3575 in34.227 -34.48 mm
Stem diameter
Inlet 0.3411 -0.3417 in 8.664 -8.679 mm
Exhaust 0.3406 -0.3412 in 8.651 -8.666 mm
Stem to guide clearance
Inlet 0.0010-0.0026 in 0.025 -0.066 mm .
Exhaust~ 0.0015 -0.0031 in 0.038 -0.078 mm .
Valve lift (inlet and exhaust) 0.3913 in 9.94 mm .
Valve spring length fitted
Up to 99MY 40.40 mm (1.59 in) at pressure of 29.5 kg (65 Ib)
From 99MY 40.93 mm (1.61 in) at pressure of 29.5 kg (65 Ib)
Lubrication
System type Wet sump, pressure fed
Oil pump type Crank driven rotor
Oil pressure
Up to 99MY 2.06 to 2.7 bar (30 to 40 lbf/irr') at 2400 rev/min with
engine warm
From 99MY 3.45 bar (50 lbf/in") at 2000 rev/min with engine warm
Oil filter-internal Wire screen, pump intake filter in sump
Oil filter-external Full flow, self-contained cartridge
ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM (EMS) V8
ENGINE Type:
Up to 99MY Sagem -Lucas Gems 8 hot wire system, electronically
controlled
From 99MY Bosch Motronic M5.2.1, electronically controlled
Fuel pump High pressure electrical, immersed in the fuel tank
Fuel pump delivery pressure
Up to 99MY 2.4-2.6 bar 34-37 lbf/in2
From 99MY 3.5 bar 50.75Ibf/in2
Fuel filter Bosch in-line filter 'canister' type
Mass airflow sensor
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 'Hot Wire' 20AM
From 99MY Bosch EH1174 (includes air intake temperature
sensor)
Injectors
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 01000
From 99MY Bosch EV6C
Electronic Control Module
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas GEMS 8.2
From 99MY Bosch M5.2.1
Fuel pressure regulator
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 8RV
From 99MY Rochester (part of fuel pump)
Coolant temperature sensor
Make and type Lucas 8TT
Bypass air valve (Stepper motor)
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 3ACM
From 99MY Bosch
Throttle position sensor
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 3TP
From 99MY Bosch OKG1
Heated oxygen sensor -catalyst vehicles
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 4LS
From 99MY Bosch LSH
Camshaft position sensor
Make and Land Rover part no.
Up to 99MY Honeywell ERR2261
From 99MY Lucas ERR6170
Crankshaft position sensor
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 4CS
From 99MY Bosch OG6
Knock sensor
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 2KS
From 99MY Bosch KS1S
Intake air temperature sensor
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 1OTT
From 99MY Not applicable (combined with M.A.F sensor)
Ignition coils
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 20lS2
From 99MY Bosch 0 221 503 407
Fuel temperature sensor
Make and type
Up to 99MY Lucas 6TT
From 99MY Not applicable
ENGINE TUNING DATA
ENGINE - 4.0 V8
Firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Cylinder Numbers Left bank Right bank 1-3-5-7 2-4-6-8
No 1 Cylinder location Pulley end of left bank
Spark plugs
Make and type
Up to 99MY Champion RN11YCC
From 99MY Champion RC11PYB4 Or Bosch Platinum
Gap Up to 99MY 0.90 -1.00 mm 0.035 -0.040 in
From 99MY 1.00 ± 0.05 mm 0.040 ± 0.002 in
NOTE: Do not attempt to adjust the gaps of RC11PYB4 spark plugs.
Valve timing Inlet Exhaust
Opens 28°BTDC 66°BBDC
Closes 77°ABDC 39°ATDC
Idle speed -controlled by Engine Management System
Up to 99MY 700 ± 20 rev/min
From 99MY 660 rev/min
Base idle setting Not adjustable (idle air control valve position checked
via Test-book)
CO at idle (vehicles without heated oxygen sensors)
Up to 99MY 1.0 -2.0 %
From 99MY 0.5 -1.0 %
Calculated Load Value (CLV) -Engine fully warm, in neutral gear, with all loads off
At Idle 2.8 to 3.8%
At 2500 rev/min 10% ± 1%
Air mass flow at sea level -Engine fully warm, in neutral gear, with all loads off
At Idle 20 ± 3 kg/hr
At 2500 rev/min 60 ± 3 kg/hr
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Saturday, January 29, 2011
Air Spring Replacement
Introduction :
The Air springs on late model Range Rovers usually need replacing before a coil spring would sag significantly -- a cause for much complaining among Range Rover owners, especially in the early days when the "Genuine" replacements were extremely expensive (close to $US300 each) and in short supply.
Cautionary Note: The E.A.S system uses air at very high pressure -- 10 bar or 150 psi. Be careful when doing any operation on it; according to the shop manual the air should be removed from the system before repairs are carried out.
Depressurizing the System:
The manual advises depressurizing the system before replacing springs, but their procedure for doing so requires the Test Book! We lesser mortals without such facilities simply skip this step (do so at your own risk of course). If you are in the field with a blown air spring, it will already be depressurized anyhow. If it is not blown and still has air in it, you can partly depressurize it by jacking up the chassis so the spring is well extended. If you want to depressurize the air tank, you can SLOWLY unscrew the drain plug -- it has a notch in the threads so when partly undone it lets the air escape without firing the plug out like a bullet.
Disabling the Air Suspension:
You don't want the suspension to adjust itself up and down while you work on the vehicle. Classic air sprung models have a disable switch under the seat. On the 4.0/4.6, no such switch is provided, but leaving the tailgate open effectively freezes the suspension. It is wise to leave a door open as well, in case one or the other accidentally gets closed. For an extra measure of safety you can unplug the air suspension delay timer, a small black box that looks like a large relay under the left front seat (see photo at right). On the 4.0/4.6, removing Fuse 44 or 17 should also work
Air Spring Replacement:
Although air spring replacement on the 4.0/4.6 is very similar to the Classic models, there are a few differences, including how to disable the air suspension, access to the parts, and in the type of clips used to hold the top and bottom pieces of the air springs in place. (Note: there are very good illustrated instructions for the operation on the Arnott website.
http://arnottindustries.com/manuals/index.asp).
Remember to disable the air suspension first, at least by opening the rear hatch and a door, or other methods described under "Disabling the Air Suspension" above. Regarding the fastenings, the 4.0/4.6 models use "R" shaped pin/clips on the rear, rather than the spring clips used on the Classic and on the front of the 4.0/4.6. Also note that the official shop manual requires removal of the plastic wheel well liners; this is not really necessary, and in the case of the rear springs, barely improves access at all.
Gaining Access to the Top Spring Clips:
The workshop manual tells you to remove the rear inner wheel well liners; this is not necessary and unlike the front springs, makes hardly any difference to access (only a couple millimeters more room where the plastic liner hangs down). If for some reason your liner hangs down more than a few millimeters it is easier to make a small cut in the liner than to remove the entire thing. Nor do you even have to remove the wheels. Tools: I suggests one pair of long needle nose pliers to pull the retaining pin, one 6-8" long flat screwdriver to depress the air hose collect, floor jack(s). Two jack stands, an optional mini LED light (photo at right) to see into the little gap between the wheel well liner and the frame where the "R" pin and air line are located. Beware adverse climates may have corroded them, and you might need a 8-12" metal hook to "hook" the end of the top "R" pin and yank it out, and a hammer to pound out the bottom "R" pin.
Rear air-spring Removal Procedure:
1. Pull the bottom "R" shaped pins to release the bottom of the air spring.
2. Lift the car fairly high on both sides and support it on stands under the frame just forward of the rear wheels. Ron used a jack on each side of the rear axle, then put chassis stands under the chassis. This is because you will need to hold the body up whilst lowering the axle to fit the air spring. Ron found it beneficial to use two jacks so you can lower the axle evenly (he used two trolley jacks).
3. With the suspension hanging, disconnect the air line at the top, pull the top pin or "R clip" (see photo on the right) and it's dead easy to pull the spring out. (Some owners have found the spring is corroded in place and is harder to pull out; of this is the case brute force may be required -- there are no other attachments to worry about other than the two pins you have removed). Ron and I were both able to access everything without removing the rear wheels. If you live in an area where corrosion is a problem, getting the pins out may be harder, and require removal of the wheel arch liner for better access.
4. Fit new spring and reinsert top retaining pin. Fit air line - just push it in. Jack up axle evenly on each side until the bottom spring plate enters the hole in the axle. If you don't raise the axle evenly a bag can easily pop off the piston. This happened to Ron but he found it was easy to refit -- he lubed the piston with a bit of kitchen washing up detergent and it popped straight on.
5. Fit bottom clips. Do other side, remove chassis stands and lower the vehicle.
1. Open the hatch and at least one more door to deactivate the air suspension (the hatch is good because when you jack up one side a door can close by itself).
2. Pull the bottom "R" shaped pins to release the bottom of the air spring.
3. Put the floor jack under the frame and lift until you can see the air line with your flashlight above the tire.
4. Hold the air line in one hand and press the metal collar with the screwdriver to let the air out (wear glasses so escaping air can't blow anything into your eyes).
5. Pull out the air line and put a piece over the top of it.
6. Pull the top "R shaped pin" and the spring will drop out (you may have to wiggle it a little bit).
7. Install the new air spring (the mini LED light lets you see what is going on). First put in the top "R" pin in then slide in the air line.
8. Lower the frame until the bottom of the spring goes in to the hole and slide in the bottom "R" spring and you are done.
Front air-spring Removal Procedure:
1.Remove Air Spring Top Clips:
The plastic fender liners inhibit access to the two metal clips that connect the top of the air springs to the body. With the liners in place,I found it very difficult to "lift and push" the clips at the same time by reaching down with a standard flat blade screwdriver. So, I ended up pulling the inner fender liner for easier access. If you do this, it is a good idea to buy a couple of the two-piece fender liner retainers as spares, since it is easy to damage them. Similarly with the spring top clips, a couple spare clips are handy in case you break or lose one.
Remove Bottom Pin and Spring:
The bottom of the front spring is secured by a long metal pin that is bolted to the axle. After removing the bolt (13 mm socket) you can pull the metal pin out of the bottom of the spring. Then, with the top clips off and the bottom pin out you can maneuver the old spring out if you raise the chassis or lower the axle sufficiently.
The spring should come out easily, but if yours doesn't, because of salt on the roads causing corrosion, for example, don't hesitate to apply brute force, as there are no other fixings than the top clips and the bottom pin you have already removed.
Installing the New Spring
Set the new spring in place, slide the bottom pin in and connected the bottom pin bolt to the axle. Then lowered the frame (I raised the axle instead) until the studs on the top of the air spring went in the holes and the top clips cold be put back on. Then he replaced the inner fender and pushed the air line in to the new spring. The shop manual says "! CAUTION: When refitting the air spring, do not allow the vehicle to rest on the deflated air spring. The chassis must be supported until the air spring is inflated". So, with the axle still on the stand and the frame still on the jack to prevent the vehicle from sitting on the bump stop, he closed the doors and the hatch and started the engine and watched the new spring fill with air. After checking for leaks he put the wheel back on and lowered the vehicle to the ground.
Start the engine (doors and tailgate closed to allow the E.A.S to work) and check that the car rises.
The Air springs on late model Range Rovers usually need replacing before a coil spring would sag significantly -- a cause for much complaining among Range Rover owners, especially in the early days when the "Genuine" replacements were extremely expensive (close to $US300 each) and in short supply.
Cautionary Note: The E.A.S system uses air at very high pressure -- 10 bar or 150 psi. Be careful when doing any operation on it; according to the shop manual the air should be removed from the system before repairs are carried out.
Depressurizing the System:
The manual advises depressurizing the system before replacing springs, but their procedure for doing so requires the Test Book! We lesser mortals without such facilities simply skip this step (do so at your own risk of course). If you are in the field with a blown air spring, it will already be depressurized anyhow. If it is not blown and still has air in it, you can partly depressurize it by jacking up the chassis so the spring is well extended. If you want to depressurize the air tank, you can SLOWLY unscrew the drain plug -- it has a notch in the threads so when partly undone it lets the air escape without firing the plug out like a bullet.
Disabling the Air Suspension:
You don't want the suspension to adjust itself up and down while you work on the vehicle. Classic air sprung models have a disable switch under the seat. On the 4.0/4.6, no such switch is provided, but leaving the tailgate open effectively freezes the suspension. It is wise to leave a door open as well, in case one or the other accidentally gets closed. For an extra measure of safety you can unplug the air suspension delay timer, a small black box that looks like a large relay under the left front seat (see photo at right). On the 4.0/4.6, removing Fuse 44 or 17 should also work
Air Spring Replacement:
Although air spring replacement on the 4.0/4.6 is very similar to the Classic models, there are a few differences, including how to disable the air suspension, access to the parts, and in the type of clips used to hold the top and bottom pieces of the air springs in place. (Note: there are very good illustrated instructions for the operation on the Arnott website.
http://arnottindustries.com/manuals/index.asp).
Remember to disable the air suspension first, at least by opening the rear hatch and a door, or other methods described under "Disabling the Air Suspension" above. Regarding the fastenings, the 4.0/4.6 models use "R" shaped pin/clips on the rear, rather than the spring clips used on the Classic and on the front of the 4.0/4.6. Also note that the official shop manual requires removal of the plastic wheel well liners; this is not really necessary, and in the case of the rear springs, barely improves access at all.
Gaining Access to the Top Spring Clips:
The workshop manual tells you to remove the rear inner wheel well liners; this is not necessary and unlike the front springs, makes hardly any difference to access (only a couple millimeters more room where the plastic liner hangs down). If for some reason your liner hangs down more than a few millimeters it is easier to make a small cut in the liner than to remove the entire thing. Nor do you even have to remove the wheels. Tools: I suggests one pair of long needle nose pliers to pull the retaining pin, one 6-8" long flat screwdriver to depress the air hose collect, floor jack(s). Two jack stands, an optional mini LED light (photo at right) to see into the little gap between the wheel well liner and the frame where the "R" pin and air line are located. Beware adverse climates may have corroded them, and you might need a 8-12" metal hook to "hook" the end of the top "R" pin and yank it out, and a hammer to pound out the bottom "R" pin.
Rear air-spring Removal Procedure:1. Pull the bottom "R" shaped pins to release the bottom of the air spring.
2. Lift the car fairly high on both sides and support it on stands under the frame just forward of the rear wheels. Ron used a jack on each side of the rear axle, then put chassis stands under the chassis. This is because you will need to hold the body up whilst lowering the axle to fit the air spring. Ron found it beneficial to use two jacks so you can lower the axle evenly (he used two trolley jacks).3. With the suspension hanging, disconnect the air line at the top, pull the top pin or "R clip" (see photo on the right) and it's dead easy to pull the spring out. (Some owners have found the spring is corroded in place and is harder to pull out; of this is the case brute force may be required -- there are no other attachments to worry about other than the two pins you have removed). Ron and I were both able to access everything without removing the rear wheels. If you live in an area where corrosion is a problem, getting the pins out may be harder, and require removal of the wheel arch liner for better access.
4. Fit new spring and reinsert top retaining pin. Fit air line - just push it in. Jack up axle evenly on each side until the bottom spring plate enters the hole in the axle. If you don't raise the axle evenly a bag can easily pop off the piston. This happened to Ron but he found it was easy to refit -- he lubed the piston with a bit of kitchen washing up detergent and it popped straight on.
5. Fit bottom clips. Do other side, remove chassis stands and lower the vehicle.
1. Open the hatch and at least one more door to deactivate the air suspension (the hatch is good because when you jack up one side a door can close by itself).
2. Pull the bottom "R" shaped pins to release the bottom of the air spring.
3. Put the floor jack under the frame and lift until you can see the air line with your flashlight above the tire.
4. Hold the air line in one hand and press the metal collar with the screwdriver to let the air out (wear glasses so escaping air can't blow anything into your eyes).
5. Pull out the air line and put a piece over the top of it.
6. Pull the top "R shaped pin" and the spring will drop out (you may have to wiggle it a little bit).
7. Install the new air spring (the mini LED light lets you see what is going on). First put in the top "R" pin in then slide in the air line.
8. Lower the frame until the bottom of the spring goes in to the hole and slide in the bottom "R" spring and you are done.
Front air-spring Removal Procedure:
1.Remove Air Spring Top Clips:
The plastic fender liners inhibit access to the two metal clips that connect the top of the air springs to the body. With the liners in place,I found it very difficult to "lift and push" the clips at the same time by reaching down with a standard flat blade screwdriver. So, I ended up pulling the inner fender liner for easier access. If you do this, it is a good idea to buy a couple of the two-piece fender liner retainers as spares, since it is easy to damage them. Similarly with the spring top clips, a couple spare clips are handy in case you break or lose one.
Remove Bottom Pin and Spring:The bottom of the front spring is secured by a long metal pin that is bolted to the axle. After removing the bolt (13 mm socket) you can pull the metal pin out of the bottom of the spring. Then, with the top clips off and the bottom pin out you can maneuver the old spring out if you raise the chassis or lower the axle sufficiently.
The spring should come out easily, but if yours doesn't, because of salt on the roads causing corrosion, for example, don't hesitate to apply brute force, as there are no other fixings than the top clips and the bottom pin you have already removed.
Installing the New Spring
Set the new spring in place, slide the bottom pin in and connected the bottom pin bolt to the axle. Then lowered the frame (I raised the axle instead) until the studs on the top of the air spring went in the holes and the top clips cold be put back on. Then he replaced the inner fender and pushed the air line in to the new spring. The shop manual says "! CAUTION: When refitting the air spring, do not allow the vehicle to rest on the deflated air spring. The chassis must be supported until the air spring is inflated". So, with the axle still on the stand and the frame still on the jack to prevent the vehicle from sitting on the bump stop, he closed the doors and the hatch and started the engine and watched the new spring fill with air. After checking for leaks he put the wheel back on and lowered the vehicle to the ground.
Start the engine (doors and tailgate closed to allow the E.A.S to work) and check that the car rises.
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